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Doctoral Thesis
DOI
https://doi.org/10.11606/T.93.2018.tde-29112018-103436
Document
Author
Full name
Heloisa de Sá Nobriga
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2018
Supervisor
Committee
Leite, Edson Roberto (President)
Cidreira, Renata Pitombo
Moura, Monica Cristina de
Roggi, Oliviero
Valverde, Monclar Eduardo Goes de Lima
Title in Portuguese
O papel visionário da arte na expressividade do vestir cotidiano
Keywords in Portuguese
Arte Contemporânea
Estetização do Cotidiano
Hans Eijkelboom
Moda
Abstract in Portuguese
A construção da aparência pessoal individualizada vem ganhando destaque como potencial expressivo, pois sua finalização tem migrado da sugestão tutelar, seja da indústria ou de estilistas renomados, para as mãos do consumidor final. Com a multiplicação das possibilidades plásticas proporcionadas pelo sistema da moda, os usuários obtêm amplitude para selecionar os elementos estéticos que traduzam simbolicamente seu modo de ser, crenças e valores, personalidade, estilo de vida, entre outras configurações subjetivas e singulares. Em contrapartida, esse vestir aparece ainda limitado por adequações de pertencimento ao coletivo social e imposições industriais que são responsáveis por oferecer produtos que estarão acessíveis no mercado, seguindo a lógica capitalista da massificação. Assim, os indivíduos ficam acuados entre as tecnicidades do vestuário1 e sua potência expressiva, esmaecida frente ao sistema de produção em massa da moda. Esse sistema desde o início tem seu mecanismo e sua visualidade investigados pelas vanguardas do início do século XX. Sem amarras com as implicações de consumo, os artistas promovem o vestir-se ao patamar da experiência e questionam paradigmas da aparência, fazendo emergir novas visualidades e apontando para tendências de comportamento de moda. Este trabalho aborda a trajetória do artista Hans Eijkelboom que desponta no final do século XX e início do século XXI, sendo visionário na exploração da vestimenta na sua potencialidade plástica expressiva como ferramenta indissociável da experiência. A partir desse intuito serão analisados trechos da história da moda e a questão da individualidade relacionada ao vestir. Além disso, serão realizadas leituras de imagens de alguns trabalhos de Hans Eijkelboom.
Title in English
Art's visionary part in the daily expression of dressing up
Keywords in English
Aestheticization of daily life
Contemporary Art
Fashion
Hans Eijkelboom
Postmodernity
Abstract in English
The construction of individualized personal appearance has been gaining prominence as expressive potential, its finalization has increasingly migrated from the tutelary suggestion, both industry and renowned stylists to the hands of the final consumer. With the multiplication of the aesthetic possibilities offered by the fashion system, users have more breadth to select the aesthetic elements that symbolically translate their way of being, beliefs and values, personality, lifestyle, among other subjective and unique configurations. On the other hand, this clothes is still limited by adaptations of belonging to the social collective and industrial impositions that are responsible for offering products that will be accessible in the market following the capitalist logic of massification. Individuals are thus trapped between the technicities of clothing and their inherent expressive power, which is dimmed by the mass production system of fashion, which from the outset has its mechanism and visuality investigated by avant-garde artists of the early twentieth century. Without strings to the implications of consumption, artists will, during the entire twentieth century, promote clothing to the level of experience, and question paradigms of appearance by dressing, making visuals emerge, pointing to trends in fashion behavior. This work studies the artist Hans Eijkelboom that emerges in the late twentieth and early twentieth centuries, embodying the exploring visionary of clothing in its expressive aesthetic potential, as an inseparable tool of experience. With this intent will be analyzed excerpts from the History of Fashion, the issue of individuality related to dress, and readings of images of some works of Hans Eijkelboom.
 
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Publishing Date
2018-11-29
 
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