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Doctoral Thesis
DOI
https://doi.org/10.11606/T.8.2021.tde-23072021-155238
Document
Author
Full name
Priscila Nina Fernandes
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2021
Supervisor
Committee
Carvalho, Vânia Carneiro de (President)
Bonadio, Maria Claudia
Lima, Solange Ferraz de
Vieira, Priscila Piazentini
Title in Portuguese
Os contornos da intimidade e o uso do espartilho no Brasil (1889-1929)
Keywords in Portuguese
Corpo
Cultura material
Gênero
História do Brasil
Moda
Abstract in Portuguese
O espartilho é objeto de uma nova experiência feminina, vinculada à modernidade. Ele expressa diferentes tensões e cria e sustenta novas formas de sociabilidade. Entre o final do século XIX e início do século XX, o espartilho circulava no corpo de mulheres, era exibido em lojas, vitrines e ateliês de costura, era divulgado em anúncios publicitários e revistas ilustradas e representado em romances, pinturas, charges e filmes. Nos centros urbanos brasileiros, muitas mulheres se envolveram com seu uso, seja como consumidoras, fabricantes ou vendedoras. A partir do estudo desse artefato, buscamos compreender aspectos do processo de modernização brasileira no período compreendido entre 1889 e 1929, tendo como foco a construção de uma intimidade burguesa no país. Defendemos que o espartilho foi agente na construção da intimidade feminina, delimitada simultaneamente como uma relação entre o indivíduo e o corpo e as esferas pública e privada, pautada por cuidados singulares e uma série de normatizações. Essa noção de intimidade se associa a um ideal de feminilidade, à sexualização e exibição do corpo feminino, a tensões entre individualidade e massificação, à diferenciação de gênero, à ritualização do cotidiano, à especialização e transformação corporais, ao avanço tecnológico e ao ambiente doméstico e urbano.
Title in English
The contours of intimacy and the corseted body in Brazil (1889-1929)
Keywords in English
Body
Fashion
Genre
History of Brazil
Material Culture
Abstract in English
The corset is an object of a new female experience that is related to modernity. It expresses different tensions; it creates and sustains new forms of sociability. Between the end of the 19th century and the beginning of the 20th, the corset circulated in women's bodies, was displayed in stores and shop windows, was advertised in illustrated magazines, and portrayed in novels, paintings, cartoons and films. In Brazilian urban centers, many women became involved with the corset, either as consumers, manufacturers or salespeople. By analyzing this artifact, we seek to understand aspects of Brazilian modernization, between 1889 and 1929, focusing on the construction of a bourgeois intimacy in the country. We defend that the corset was an agent in the construction of female intimacy, which is delimited simultaneously as a relationship between the individual and the body and the public and private spheres and guided by a series of norms. The notion of intimacy is associated with an ideal of femininity, with the sexualization and exhibition of the female body, with tensions between individuality and massification, with gender differentiation, with the ritualization of everyday life, with the process of modernization and with the domestic and urban environments.
 
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Publishing Date
2021-07-23
 
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