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Doctoral Thesis
DOI
Document
Author
Full name
Luís André do Prado
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2019
Supervisor
Committee
Arruda, Jose Jobson de Andrade (President)
Melo, Isabelle Anchieta de
Saes, Alexandre Macchione
Villarino, Leandro Vizin
Title in Portuguese
Indústria do vestuário e moda no Brasil, sec. XIX a 1960 - da cópia e adaptação à autonomização pelo simulacro
Keywords in Portuguese
Consumo
História econômica
Indústria de confecção
Moda
Vestuário
Abstract in Portuguese
É objetivo desta tese compor um painel histórico da indústria do vestuário no Brasil das pioneiras manufaturas de roupas prontas para escravos, no início do século XIX, ao lançamento internacional da moda feita no Brasil, nos anos 1960, como parte de campanhas para promoção dos tecidos em fibras sintéticas da multinacional Rhodia. O fabrico industrial de vestuário em nosso país teve início com roupas de trabalho, seguido por peças íntimas (em geral) e roupas masculinas para as camadas médias, na segunda metade do século XIX; as roupas femininas foram industrializadas após os anos 1930, a partir de cópias e/ou adaptações de modelos ou moldes importados, processo atrelado ao crescimento dos magazines e lojas de departamentos. A emergência e autonomização do campo profissional da criação de moda conforme conceituou o sociólogo francês Pierre Bourdieu se deu, entre nós, a partir da década de 1950, de forma tardia e subordinada ao sistema de moda francês, simultaneamente ao avanço do prêt-à-porter, percurso peculiar a uma sociedade situada na periferia do sistema da moda e do capitalismo global.
Title in English
Garment industry and fashion in Brazil from the 19th century to 1960: from copying and adaptation to subordinate autonomization
Keywords in English
Clothing
Clothing industry
Cultural study
Economic history
Fashion
Abstract in English
The objective of this thesis is to compose a historical panel of the garment industry in Brazil from the pioneering manufacture of ready-to-wear clothes for slaves, in the early nineteenth century, to the "international launch" of fashion made in Brazil in the years 1960, as part of campaigns to promotion of fabrics in synthetic fibers of the multinational Rhodia. The manufacture of seriated garments in our country began with work pieces, followed by the general underwear and men's clothing to the middle class, in the second half of the nineteenth century; women's clothing were industrialized after the 1930s, from copies and/or adaptations of imported pieces of clothes or molds, process linked to the growth by department stores. The emergence and autonomisation of the professional field of fashion creation as the French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu conceptuated took place, among us, from the decade of 1950, in a late manner and subordinate to the French fashion system, simultaneously to the advance of the prêt-à-porter, peculiar path to a society situated on the periphery of the system of fashion and global capitalism.
 
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Publishing Date
2019-10-16
 
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