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Master's Dissertation
DOI
10.11606/D.39.2005.tde-25072005-162610
Document
Author
Full name
Rômulo Cássio de Moraes Bertuzzi
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2005
Supervisor
Committee
Kiss, Maria Augusta Peduti Dal Molin (President)
Franchini, Emerson
Tricoli, Valmor Alberto Augusto
Title in Portuguese
"Estimativa das contribuições dos sistemas energéticos e do gasto energético total na escalada esportiva indoor"
Keywords in Portuguese
cinética do consumo de oxigênio
consumo de oxigênio
débito alático de oxigênio
gasto energético
lactato
Abstract in Portuguese
O propósito do presente estudo foi investigar as contribuições dos sistemas bioenergéticos e do gasto energético total durante a escalada esportiva indoor. As variáveis antropométricas, a composição corporal, a potência aeróbia máxima de membros superiores e o teste de Wingate para membros superiores foram avaliados em 13 escaladores (Grupo de Elite = 6; Grupo Recreacional = 7). Além disso, o grupo de elite escalou três rotas com diferentes níveis de intensidades (fácil, moderada e difícil) com a mensuração contínua do consumo de oxigênio e com a medida das concentrações sangüíneas de lactato de pico durante a recuperação, ao passo que o grupo dos escaladores recreacionais escalou apenas a rota fácil sobe as mesmas condições. As estimativas dos sistemas aeróbio, glicolítico e ATP-CP foram feitas por meio da mensuração do consumo de oxigênio, das concentrações sanguíneas de lactato de pico e do débito alático de oxigênio, respectivamente. A estimativa do gasto energético total foi realizada pela somatória desses três sistemas. Os principais resultados foram: a) as variáveis antropométricas influenciam apenas em situações específicas da escalada; b) o consumo de oxigênio de pico e a freqüência cardíaca de pico têm uma relação não-linear durante as ascensões das rotas de escalada; c) os sistemas oxidativo e o ATP-CP são os prioritários na transferência da energia na escalada esportiva indoor, independentemente da intensidade das rotas estudadas ou do nível de aptidão dos indivíduos; d) o perfil metabólico e o gasto energético total não apresentam relação linear com o incremento da dificuldade das rotas; e) o menor gasto energético total durante as ascensões está mais relacionado ao desempenho nesse esporte que o aprimoramento dos sistemas bioenergéticos.
Title in English
ESTIMATIVE OF ENERGETICS SYSTEMS CONTRIBUTIONS AND COST ENERGETIC IN INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING
Keywords in English
alactacid oxygen debt
energetic cost
lactate
oxygen uptake
oxygen uptake kinetics
Abstract in English
The purpose of the present study was to investigate the contributions of the energetic systems and the total energetic cost, during the indoor rock climbing. The anthropometric variables, body composition, upper limbs maximal aerobic power and the Wingate test for the upper limbs were evaluated in 14 climbers (Elite group = 7; Recreation group = 7). Besides, the Elite group have climbed three routes with different levels of intensity (easy, moderate and hard) with the continue measurement of the oxygen uptake during these tasks and with the measurement of the peak blood lactate concentrations during the recovery, while as the recreational climbers group have climbed only the easy route under the same conditions. The calculation of the aerobic, glycolytic and ATP-CP systems were made by the measurement of the oxygen consumption, peak blood lactate concentrations and alactacid oxygen debt, respectively. The calculation of the total energetic cost was made by the sum of these three systems. The main results were: a) the anthropometric variables have secondary contribution on the rock climbers performance, b) the oxygen consumption and the heart rate have a non-linear relation during the ascension of the climbing routes, c) the aerobic and the ATP-CP systems have priority on the energy transference in the indoor rock climbing, independently on the routes intensity or the ability level of the individual, d) the metabolic profile and cost energetic don’t have a linear relationship with the route’s difficult increment; e) the minor energetic cost is more important for the performance in this sport than the improvement of the bioenergetic systems.
 
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Publishing Date
2005-08-03
 
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