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Master's Dissertation
DOI
https://doi.org/10.11606/D.2.2019.tde-24072020-135201
Document
Author
Full name
Luiza Silva Balthazar
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2019
Supervisor
Committee
Silveira, Newton (President)
Barbosa, Pedro Marcos Nunes
Morato, Antonio Carlos
Pimentel, Luiz Otávio
Title in Portuguese
Proteção à moda como patrimônio cultural e propriedade intelectual
Keywords in Portuguese
Apropriação cultural
Moda
Patrimônio cultural
Propriedade intelectual
Abstract in Portuguese
O presente trabalho busca estudar a possibilidade de se considerar os artigos de vestuário como patrimônio cultural e avaliar as consequências dessa aplicação à propriedade intelectual da moda. Para tanto, a moda foi estudada como um meio de comunicação e expressão cultural, identificando seus aspectos sociológicos e antropológicos. Com essas ideias, estudou-se a evolução da vestimenta e da história da moda, de forma a diferenciar a moda - formada de tendências sazonais - dos trajes típicos. A partir desses conceitos, foram identificados documentos internacionais relativos ao patrimônio cultural, especialmente o imaterial, com objetivo de estabelecer a evolução do conceito e de sua abrangência, partindo dos bens edificados para as práticas culturais imateriais, o que inclui as vestimentas. No âmbito do direito comparado, verificou-se como Portugal, França, Bolívia e Argentina lidam com essas questões. O ordenamento nacional foi estudado sob a perspectiva da evolução constitucional da cultura e da propriedade intelectual e, em relação à carta magna vigente, da construção dos princípios e da participação social como elemento diferenciador desta Constituição. Quanto às normas infraconstitucionais, buscou-se entender como elas se inserem dentro da estrutura organizacional brasileira e o que trazem para as comunidades tradicionais e para a indústria da moda. Além disso, verificou-se a possibilidade de proteger as vestimentas tradicionais e as criações de moda pelos institutos da propriedade intelectual. Por fim, constatou-se que a origem de conflitos de apropriação cultural reside na dificuldade em encaixar no sistema de direitos intelectuais as obras criadas pelas comunidades tradicionais, que priorizam a coletividade e a tradição oral. No intuito de reduzir impactos negativos nessas comunidades, entende-se que a simples aplicação desses direitos às vestimentas tradicionais traria prejuízos, sendo que há outras formas de atender aos seus anseios sem que os direitos culturais sejam prejudicados.
Title in English
Fashion as cultural heritage and intellectual property
Keywords in English
Cultural appropriation
Cultural heritage
Fashion
Intellectual property
Abstract in English
This work aims to study the possibility of considering garments as cultural heritage and evaluate the consequences of this application to the intellectual property of fashion. For this purpose, fashion was studied as a means of communication and cultural expression, identifying its sociological and anthropological aspects. The evolution of clothing and the history of fashion was studied in order to differentiate fashion - formed of seasonal tendencies - from typical costumes. Based on these concepts, international documents related to cultural heritage, especially the immaterial, were identified aiming to establish the evolution of the concept and its scope, going from buildings and landscape properties to intangible cultural practices. In the field of comparative law, it was verified how Portugal, France, Bolivia and Argentina deal with these issues. The Brazilian Law was studied from the perspective of the constitutional evolution of culture and intellectual property and, considering the Constitution, the construction of principles and public participation as a differentiating element of this document. Regarding the Laws, it was analysed how they fit within the Brazilian organizational structure and what consequences they bring to traditional communities and to the fashion industry. In addition, the possibility to protect traditional clothing and fashion creations by intellectual property means was studied. Finally, it was verified that the origin of the cultural appropriation conflicts lies in the difficulty in fitting into the intellectual property system the works created by traditional communities, which prioritize the collective construction, embodied in the oral tradition, which allows the constant evolution of cultural practices. Thus, in order to reduce negative externalities to these communities, it is understood that the simple application of these rights to traditional clothing would harm the communities, and there are other ways of meeting their needs without impairing cultural rights.
 
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Publishing Date
2020-08-03
 
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