• JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
  • JoomlaWorks Simple Image Rotator
 
  Bookmark and Share
 
 
Doctoral Thesis
DOI
10.11606/T.16.2019.tde-18012019-151934
Document
Author
Full name
Rafaela Blanch Pires
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2018
Supervisor
Committee
Martins, Sergio Regis Moreira (President)
Campos, Paulo Eduardo Fonseca de
Donati, Luisa Angélica Paraguai
Gomes, Suzana Helena de Avelar
Rossi, Dorival Campos
Title in Portuguese
Entre-Telas: o designer de moda nas imediações da cultura maker e indústria 4.0
Keywords in Portuguese
Cultura maker
Designer
Fabricação digital
Indústria 4.0
Moda
Abstract in Portuguese
Em fases transformadoras como a que se vive na atualidade com as tecnologias que impactam os processos produtivos de moda, os papéis desempenhados pelos designers se alteram. Neste contexto, o designer de moda parece se deparar entre as narrativas da cultura maker (influenciados por movimentos de contra-cultura, ao clamar por autonomia como o Arts & Crafts, DIY, movimento do software livre e open-source) e, por outro, os direcionamentos tomados pela indústria 4.0. (produção em escala, ultra-personalizadas, distribuída e com uso de dados). Estes dois âmbitos têm em comum interesse o uso de ferramentas de fabricação digital, por isso, os conhecimentos necessários para projetos desenvolvidos nestes espaços se difundem rapidamente. Contudo, ímpetos, narrativas, valores iniciais e interesses de diversas origens se mesclam de um modo difícil de distinguir (NASCIMENTO, S.; PÓLVORA, A.; 2016), mas que continuam a gerar agenciamentos. Esta investigação tem como objetivo apresentar um panorama dos percursos do designer de moda em meio ao contexto cultural e operacional da fabricação digital afim de destacar pontos de tensão e de disparidades sociais que passam pelo campo produtivo, afim de encontrar quais os próximos e melhores passos a serem dados. Deste modo, busca-se utilizar ferramentas digitais como impressoras 3D, escaners 3D e máquinas de corte a laser na com a intenção de trazer mais autonomia, acessibilidade, igualdade nas relações para designers de moda no Brasil.
Title in English
Inbetween: the fashion designer at the intersection of the maker culture and the 4.0 industry
Keywords in English
4.0 industry
Designer
Digital fabrication
Fashion
Maker culture
Abstract in English
In a phase of deep transformations with new technologies that impact the productive processes in the fashion field. In this context, the fashion designer finds himself between narratives devired from the the maker culture (following counter-culture movements, claiming for autonomy with the Arts & Crafts movement, DIY, later the free software movement, open-source) and the 4.0 industry (scale, ultrapersonalized, distributed production based on data). Both areas have the interest on digital fabrication in common, therefore, the required knowledge for projects developed in these spaces spreads rapidly. Yet, impulses, narratives and initial values cultuated by the maker movement seems to be mixed and dispersed (NASCIMENTO, S.; PÓLVORA, A.; 2016) while agency keep happening. The present investigation's aim is to present the paths followed by the fashion designer immersed in a cultural context and in the operational digital fabrication's context in order to find which are the best actions to be taken. In this sense, digital fabrication tools such as 3D printers, 3D scanners, laser cutter machines can be used to bring more autonomy, accessibility, equality in the relations and in the ways of producing for fashion designers in Brasil.
 
WARNING - Viewing this document is conditioned on your acceptance of the following terms of use:
This document is only for private use for research and teaching activities. Reproduction for commercial use is forbidden. This rights cover the whole data about this document as well as its contents. Any uses or copies of this document in whole or in part must include the author's name.
Publishing Date
2019-03-20
 
WARNING: Learn what derived works are clicking here.
All rights of the thesis/dissertation are from the authors
CeTI-SC/STI
Digital Library of Theses and Dissertations of USP. Copyright © 2001-2021. All rights reserved.