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Master's Dissertation
DOI
10.11606/D.100.2017.tde-07062017-113559
Document
Author
Full name
Maíra Teixeira de Macedo Neves
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2017
Supervisor
Committee
Gomes, Suzana Helena de Avelar (President)
Andrade, Rita Morais de
Vicentini, Claudia Regina Garcia
Title in Portuguese
Inconformidades indumentárias: reflexões sobre moda e crossdressing
Keywords in Portuguese
Crossdressing
Gênero
Moda
Roupas
Teoria queer
Abstract in Portuguese
Este trabalho tem como propósito lançar uma reflexão sobre as maneiras pelas quais os usos descontextualizados da roupa podem consistir em uma subversão do sistema, sobretudo por meio das práticas de crossdressing. A moda, aqui, foi analisada em dois movimentos: o primeiro, que consiste no reforço ao modelo binário de gênero; e o segundo, em que se aproveita de fissuras oriundas da própria norma para causar-lhe perturbações. A partir de referenciais teóricometodológicos feministas e queer, foram realizadas investigações qualitativas, como entrevistas e pesquisas de campo, que possibilitaram uma perspectiva dos sujeitos como provisórios e cambiantes, contribuindo para que suas narrativas fossem compreendidas de maneira mais ampla e menos limitada. A roupa, no contexto do crossdressing, foi observada como parte fundamental da construção das subjetividades e da imagem feminina à qual as crossdressers aspiram, denunciando precisamente o caráter construído da naturalidade dos gêneros que encontra endosso na moda. Ainda que parte dos discursos de produção da normalidade, a vestimenta encerra inumeráveis possibilidades de (r)existência que desestabilizam e desmantelam hegemonias
Title in English
Sartorial nonconformity: reflections on fashion and crossdressing
Keywords in English
Clothing
Crossdressing
Fashion
Gender
Queer theory
Abstract in English
This research aims to propose a reflection on the ways through which the decontextualized uses of clothing can consist in a subversion of the system, especially through crossdressing practices. Hence fashion was analyzed in two movements: the first, which consists in reinforcing the binary gender model; and the second, in which it takes advantage of the cracks originating from the very norm in order to disturb it. From feminist and queer theoretical-methodological frameworks, qualitative inquiries such as interviews and fieldwork were carried out, which permitted a perspective of the subjects as provisional and mutable, allowing their narratives to be comprehended in a wider and less constrained manner. Clothing, within the crossdressing context, was seen as a fundamental part in the construction of the subjectivities and of the feminine image to which crossdressers aspire. That way, it precisely exposes the fabricated character of gender, which finds support in fashion. Though being part of the production of normality discourses, clothes encompass numberless possibilities of (r)existence that destabilize and dismantle hegemonies
 
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Publishing Date
2017-06-14
 
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