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Doctoral Thesis
DOI
10.11606/T.8.2018.tde-06082018-160558
Document
Author
Full name
Valéria Oliveira Santos
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2018
Supervisor
Committee
Magnani, Jose Guilherme Cantor (President)
Dawsey, John Cowart
Nascimento, Silvana de Souza
Sautchuk, Carlos Emanuel Manzolillo
Torres, Lilian de Lucca
Title in Portuguese
Sob medida: uma etnografia da prática da alfaiataria
Keywords in Portuguese
Alfaiatarias
Alfaiates
Antropologia da técnica
Habilidades
Abstract in Portuguese
Com base em dados etnográficos de pesquisa realizada em alfaiatarias de Curitiba, este trabalho explora as habilidades e técnicas associadas ao processo de confecção de roupas sob medida tratando de compreender como gestos, materiais e instrumentos de trabalho atuam entre si produzindo não apenas roupas, mas também as habilidades dos próprios alfaiates e os corpos de seus respectivos clientes. A reflexão se dedica a investigação dessas práticas como processos de produção de conhecimento e está afinada com as proposições que repensam a relação entre o homem e a matéria. O eixo central da observação segue a sugestão de Tim Ingold (2013) de que o fazer é um processo de correspondência entre o fazedor e material, e não de imposição ou de aplicação de um conhecimento prévio. Sugere-se que, nos engajamentos estabelecidos entre ternos, alfaiates e clientes, aperfeiçoa-se, ao mesmo tempo, o corpo do cliente, que é modelado pela roupa sob medida adquirida, e as capacidades do alfaiate, que são constituídas pela roupa sob medida fornecida e pelas relações que estabelecem a partir da alfaiataria. Pretende-se, ao final, contribuir para o entendimento das transformações recentes deste campo de trabalho, em especial no que diz respeito ao surgimento de novas formas de praticar a alfaiataria.
Title in English
Bespoke: an ethnography of tailoring practice
Keywords in English
Anthropology of technique
Skills
Tailors
Tailors shops
Abstract in English
Based on ethnographic research data from Curitiba's tailors, this work explores the skills and techniques associated with the tailoring process, with the goal of understanding to understand how gestures, materials and work tools interact with each other producing not only clothes, but also the tailors themselves and the bodies of their respective clients. Reflection is devoted on the investigation of these practices as processes of knowledge production, and is in tune with the propositions that rethink the relationship between man and matter. The central axis of observation follows the suggestion of Tim Ingold (2013) that doing is a process of correspondence between the maker and material, not imposition or application of prior knowledge. It is suggested that the client's body and the tailor's capabilities are modeled by tailor-made clothing in the compromises established between suits, tailors and clients. In the end, it is intended to contribute to the understanding of the recent transformations of this field of work, especially with regard to the emergence of new ways of practicing tailoring.
 
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Publishing Date
2018-08-06
 
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