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Master's Dissertation
DOI
https://doi.org/10.11606/D.21.2007.tde-19072007-132207
Document
Author
Full name
Mainara da Rocha Karniol Marquez
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2007
Supervisor
Committee
Mahiques, Michel Michaelovitch de (President)
Muehe, Dieter Carl Ernst Heino
Tessler, Moyses Gonsalez
Title in Portuguese
"Morfodinâmica de um segmento da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul do Estado de São Paulo"
Keywords in Portuguese
avaliação de curto período
Ilha Comprida
Morfodinâmica de praia
transporte longitudinal
transporte transversal
variação de volume
Abstract in Portuguese
A dinâmica de praia constitui conhecimento elementar em obras de engenharia e na compreensão da evolução costeira ao longo do Quaternário recente. Buscou-se avaliar a variação temporal de curto período da morfologia e do volume de sedimento em um segmento na porção sul da praia da Ilha Comprida, litoral sul de São Paulo. Os resultados permitiram algumas interpretações, tanto em escala diária, como sazonal. As morfologias e os volumes do trecho estudado apresentaram maior similaridade entre as campanhas de maio de 2005 e janeiro de 2006, com estágio morfodinâmico de praia dissipativa, e entre agosto e novembro de 2005, com estágio de praia intermediária do tipo banco e calha. As ondas de sul com alturas de até 1 m e período médio entre 7 e 8 s atuaram no processo de engordamento da praia emersa, enquanto que as ondas desta mesma direção com alturas a partir de 1,5 m e período médio entre 8 e 10 s exerceram papel erosivo. De forma inversa, as ondas de leste com até 1 m de altura e período médio entre 6 e 8 s exerceram papel erosivo e com até 1,5 m e período médio entre 6 e 7 s, papel deposicional.
Title in English
Morphodynamic of Ilha Comprida beach segment, southern coast of the state of São Paulo
Keywords in English
alongshore transport
Beach morphodynamic
cross-shore transport
Ilha Comprida
short-term evaluation
volume variation
Abstract in English
The knowledge of beach dynamics is fundamental in any coastal engineering projects as well as in the coastal evolution comprehension during the Late Quaternary. The aim of this study is to evaluate the short-term variations in morphology and sediment volume in a beach segment located in the southern portion of the Ilha Comprida, southern coast of the state of São Paulo, Brazil. The results allowed us to get important conclusions on daily and seasonal variations in beach morphology and behaviour. The morphology and volume data show similarity between may/2005 and jan/2006, with dissipative morphodynamic state characteristics, as well as between aug/2005 and nov/2005, characterized by an intermediate morphodynamic state. Southerly waves reaching 1m high and mean period between 7 and 8 s acts on the emerged part of the segment in a depositional way as well as southerly waves higher than 1,5 m and period between 8 and 10 s cause erosion in the same part of the beach profile. Easterly waves act in an opposite way, with lower heights causing erosion and higher causing deposition.
 
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mainara.pdf (7.61 Mbytes)
Publishing Date
2007-09-12
 
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