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Master's Dissertation
DOI
https://doi.org/10.11606/D.16.2018.tde-01062017-160241
Document
Author
Full name
João Gabriel Farias Barbosa de Araujo
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2017
Supervisor
Committee
Senne, Lara Leite Barbosa de (President)
Mendes, Francisca Dantas
Miranda, Clara Luiza
Title in Portuguese
Arquitetura por um fio: vestes e abrigos de povos ciganos e nômades
Keywords in Portuguese
Arquitetura Vernacular
Ciganos
Cultura Material
Mobilidade Residencial
Povos Tribos e Culturas
Vestuário
Abstract in Portuguese
A dissertação propõe o estudo da cultura material - representada pela arquitetura e indumentária - de sociedades que mantém ou em algum momento tiveram comportamentos nômades. A pesquisa se ocupa de corpos que estão em movimento, marcados por ritos e exposto a condições ambientais extremas; vestuários e acessórios feitos sob medida e imbuídos de poderes sobrenaturais e habitações conscientes de sua efemeridade. Seu objetivo geral é estudar as inter-relações que se estabelecem através de suportes efêmeros como as habitações e trajes. Em específico ela busca conhecer os processos de produção do espaço da habitação nômade; apreender e identificar o processo de concepção, confecção e uso dos vestuários; perceber a importância das manifestações da cultura material nômade para a sua identidade e estética e procurar similaridades construtivas, visuais e estéticas entre vestes e abrigos nômades. A dissertação é o resultado da revisão bibliográfica que transita pelos trabalhos de Bernard Rudofsky, Florencia Ferrari, Labelle Prussin, Mark Jarzombek, Mette Bovin, Paul Oliver, Robert Kroenenburg, Torvald Faegre entre outros; do estudo de caso dos Ciganos Calons e de quatro povos nômades: Beduínos, Inuit, Tuaregues e Wodaabes; das visitas realizadas aos acampamentos Calons em São Paulo e no Espírito Santo e das entrevistas à costureira especializada em vestidos ciganos. Esta obra fortalece o vínculo conceitual e prático entre indumentária e arquitetura através do estudo paralelo dessas duas manifestações culturais. Ela constata que o vestuário nômade vai muito além da necessidade de proteção e do desejo de ornamentação, muitas vezes estando relacionado à cosmologia ou aos mitos e crenças destas sociedades e reitera a importância de repensarmos as concepções clássicas e eruditas da arquitetura.
Title in English
Architecture by a thread: robes and shelters of gypsy and nomadic people
Keywords in English
Clothing
Gypsies
Material Culture
Peoples Tribes and Cultures
Residential Mobility
Vernacular Architecture
Abstract in English
This dissertation aims to study the material culture - represented by the architecture and clothing - of societies that maintain or at some point had nomadic behaviors. The research deals with bodies that are in movement, marked by rites and exposed to extreme environmental conditions; Clothing and accessories made to measure and imbued with supernatural powers and dwellings aware of their ephemerality. Its general objective is to study the interrelationships that are established through ephemeral supports such as shelters and costumes. Speci?ically, it seeks to know the processes of production of the nomadic housing space; to seize and identify the process of designing, making and using garments; to perceive the importance of nomadic material culture manifestations for their identity and aesthetics and to look for constructive, visual and aesthetic similarities between nomadic garments and shelters. The dissertation is the result of the bibliographical review of the works of Bernard Rudofsky, Florencia Ferrari, Labelle Prussin, Mark Jarzombek, Mette Bovin, Paul Oliver, Robert Kroenenburg, Torvald Faegre among others; the case study of the Calon Gypsies and four other nomadic societies: Bedouin, Inuit, Tuareg and Wodaabes; visits to the Calon camps in São Paulo and Espírito Santo and interviews with the seamstress specialized in gypsy dresses. This work strengthens the conceptual and practical link between clothing and architecture through the parallel study of these two cultural manifestations. It ?inds that the nomadic clothing goes far beyond the need for protection and the desire for ornamentation, often being related to the cosmology or the myths and beliefs of these societies and reiterates the importance of rethinking the classic and scholarly conceptions of architecture.
 
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Publishing Date
2018-01-11
 
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