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Master's Dissertation
DOI
10.11606/D.100.2017.tde-20112017-195915
Document
Author
Full name
Antonio Carlos Rodrigues dos Santos
E-mail
Institute/School/College
Knowledge Area
Date of Defense
Published
São Paulo, 2017
Supervisor
Committee
Held, Maria Silvia Barros de (President)
Barreiros, Alexandra Isabel Cruchinho
Gomes, Suzana Helena de Avelar
Mello, Regina Lara Silveira
Title in Portuguese
A complexidade da moda: influência dos principais designers belgas e japoneses
Keywords in Portuguese
Belgas
Complexidade
Japoneses
Moda
Morin
Abstract in Portuguese
Esta pesquisa caracteriza-se pelo estudo dos principais designers de moda pertencentes à frente japonesa e belga na década de 1980, tais como: Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake e Martin Margiela a partir da Teoria da Complexidade, do pensador francês Edgar Morin. Tem como objetivo investigar a hipótese de que o trabalho de tais designers se estabeleceu de maneira complexa como uma força de ruptura ao questionar e subverter a moda então vigente e, sobretudo, influenciar os rumos da moda contemporânea. Para tanto, a pesquisa fundamenta-se na Teoria da Complexidade enquanto base teórica e metodológica para certificar a complexidade do trabalho destes designers, bem como a complexidade da própria moda. Parte-se da premissa de que a moda é uma ciência sistêmica, e como tal, deve ser abordada por uma visão plurilateral mediante ao agrupamento e correlação de diversas áreas e, respaldada pelo caráter de não especialização proposto pela Teoria da Complexidade, esta pesquisa perpassa por diferentes campos do conhecimento como a filosofia, sociologia, história, arte e design. Isto posto, propõe-se um estudo bibliográfico e a análise iconográfica dos designers mencionados, ainda de maneira interdisciplinar, em três vertentes distintas e complementares: ideias, tecnologia e forma; e o estudo de sua respectiva influência sobre a moda contemporânea
Title in English
The complexity of fashion: the influence of the most important japanese and belgians designers in contemporary fashion.
Keywords in English
Belgians.
Complexity
Fashion
Japanese
Morin
Abstract in English
This research is characterized by the study of the main fashion designers from the Japanese and Belgian movements in the 1980s, including Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Martin Margiela, analyzed through the perspective of the Complexity Theory created by the French philosopher Edgar Morin. The objective of this study is to investigate the hypothesis that the work of these designers was based in a complex way as a force of rupture, questioning, subversion and influence to the contemporary fashion. For this, the research is based on the Complexity Theory with theoretical and methodological bases to certify the complexity in the career of these designers and also the complexity of fashion itself. It is based on the premise that fashion is a systemic science and should be approached by a plurilateral view through the grouping and correlation of several segments and, supported by the non-specialization profile proposed by Theory of Complexity, this research studies different areas of knowledge, including philosophy, sociology, history and design. The main proposal of this research is to trace a biographical study and an iconographic analysis of the designers in an interdisciplinary way with three distinct and complementary aspects: ideas, technology and form, and also study their respective influence on contemporary fashion.
 
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Publishing Date
2017-12-01
 
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